Tanuki in Kyoto

what is a tanuki?

The first time I ever heard about tanuki was when Mario found a tanooki suit power-up in Super Mario Bros 3 in 2014. At the time, I had no idea that tanuki were real animals. I saw tanuki statues all over Japan while travelling. While deeply amused by their giant testicles, I didn’t really understand what they were, or what they represented. Eventually, I learned about real tanuki while staying in Kochi, in Shikoku, with my friend Maki-san. We stayed at her mum’s house and the tanuki were stealing her home grown vegetables.

After hearing about tanuki and then seeing photos, I desperately wanted to see one in the wild. When Super Sake Boy saw two running along the street next to our taxi in Kyoto last November and I was too slow to see them, I was irrationally envious.

Finally, last week, while I was in Kyoto doing some research for my new project of fiction, I visited the Heian Jingu.This shrine was built in 1895 to celebrate the 1,100 year anniversary of Kyoto. Heiankyo is the original name of Kyoto . The shrine is right in the city, adjacent to the prefectural library, an art gallery, and a theatre. I was meandering gently through the exquisite garden, admiring the lotus and iris flowers, and watching a beautiful heron carefully preening his feathers, when a fluffy bum caught my attention.

I grabbed my phone and directed toward the unknown furry critter. When he lifted his little face it was undeniably that of a tanuki, with a mask-like banding across his eyes, and a pointy little nose.

I gasped and pointed! ‘これはタヌキですか,’ is that a tanuki? Several people sitting on the bridge turned to look and confirmed my sighting.

I took a few photos, then turned on my video to capture his retreat, over a bridge, and into an inaccessible part of the garden.

I’ve travelled through many mountainous regions of Japan, and in areas with few people. I’d been looking for a tanuki for 10 years. Now, here I was, in the middle of the city, and this tanuki was trotting over the bridge like it was an every day occurrence. A tanuki in Kyoto. Many of my friends who live in Japan have never seen a tanuki. If I had have skipped the coffee, missed the flea market outside, or walked a little faster, I would have missed him.

Tanuki mythology and statues

In Japanese mythology, tanuki have strong magic and are considered tricksters and shapeshifters. They also herald good luck, prosperity, and fun. Possibly because of these qualities you can find tanuki statues at the entrance of nearly every restaurant and bar, and at many other businesses in Japan.

Tanuki statues are infamously made in Shigaraki, not too far from Kyoto. I have one near my front door and one hanging on my handbag. Each statue has the eight recognisable attributes of tanuki.

1. Hat—symbolises protection against trouble
2. Big eyes—signifying tanuki is observant
3. Sake bottle—represents virtue
4. Big tail—shows tenacity
5. Oversized testicles—symbolic of good financial luck
6. Promissory note—shows tanuki is trustworthy and confident
7. Big belly—indicates boldness and calm decision making
8. Friendly smile—tanuki is humorous and amiable

So, I’m taking this sighting as a sign of good things to come. And, if they don’t, at least I saw this cute guy. He made me stupidly happy.

Read more about Japanese mythology and yokai (monsters) here. Read more about Shigaraki and tanuki statues here.