Two Days in Tokyo

We arrived in Tokyo, after the now expected delay at Melbourne Airport, at around 7:30pm on Monday. Both Super Sake Boy and I were so happy to be back in Japan, but exhausted. We took the new Keisei Skyliner from Narita Airport to Ueno Station. It’s super convenient and faster than the NEX Express. After a long day of travelling, we went straight to our hotel.

The Edo Sakura is built in an old machiya (town house) and is quite traditional, with a tea ceremony room, a private onsen, and futon on tatami. The first night is always a bit of a shock, but your body acclimatises quickly. I’m a side sleeper and it can be pretty hard on the hips, but it’s very comfortable on your back. 

DAY ONE

We were up bright and early and had breakfast at the hotel. Grilled salmon, miso, rice, pickles, tomagoyaki, and sweet beans. Our first stop was teamLab Planets. We had tickets to see teamLab in 2020 when Covid cancelled our trip. I have been eagerly waiting to experience this since. 

teamLab are an international interdisciplinary art collective working with CG animation, and technology to create multi-sensory experiences. Planets was extraordinary. With no shoes on and jeans rolled up to our knees, we moved from space to space. First through an infinity of changing colour crystals, then through dark passages with changing textures under our feet. As we continued walking, water started lapping at our toes. The milky water eventually coming up to our knees. Koi were projected onto the surface of the water and were darting between people. 

Then a room full of enormous spheres, with changing-coloured lights, and mirrored walls. Every room had its own music to accompany the visuals. The next room was created to give the sense of floating in space amongst flowers. Its was discombobulating to walk around, but incredible to lie down and watch the ceiling.

The final space was my favourite. Suspended living orchids moving vertically, slowly to music. The smell was so beautiful and to be immersed in them was very peaceful.

Next, shopping in The Ginza. The fancy area of Tokyo where everyone has their flagships stores. We had a lovely time shopping for stationery in Itoya, a new favourite. Hamburg steaki for lunch, with corn chowder and excellent salad. Super Sake Boy and I were in heaven. At 24 degree and sunny, Tokyo felt warmer in winter than Melbourne had in summer.

Finally, we meet our dear cousin, Maki Tanaka, in Shinjuku, and walked to meet some other Taste with the Toji members at an izakaya. Maki is not really SSB’s cousin, but they share a common surname. We have met Maki in Australia several times. It was surreal to meet with Cathy, Harald, and Kelly, after seeing them online for such a long time. Kelly’s friend Melvin joined us. What happens when you get a bunch of excitable sake loving people from around the world together? You drink a lot of sake.

We enjoyed dinner at the izakaya, accompanied by sake, and then made our way to a sake bar. Sake tasting at the bar is a set price, and then you can drink whatever you like for a set amount of time. This is very dangerous! Super Sake Boy and I relished meeting with these friends we’ve known virtually since 2020.

DAY TWO

After a long sleep in, due to sore heads, we eventually emerged on day two desperate to find coffee. Maki-san was shocked that we drink Starbucks, being from Melbourne. So, we found a boutique coffee cafe , and enjoyed one of the best coffees I’ve ever had. We then found a Japanese curry and whiskey bar for lunch. A Suntory Ao Highball resolved any further head fuzziness, and the curry was perfect hangover food. Rich and delicious with mushrooms, rice, and cheese.

The weather was less unseasonal with a top of 8 degrees and intermittent rain. Sometimes verging on heavy. We made our way to Kappabashi-dori, or Kitchen Street. I had been once before, but with two young kids who had zero interest in kitchen supplies. It was Super Sake Boy’s first time. The amount of choice and products available was mind-blowing. Every possible gadget, pan, receptacle, uniform, knife, and restaurant supply you could possibly imagine, and then some.  We purchased a knife, a mini knife, a noren, some hashi (chopstick) rests, and a hashi wrap. We also finally found some tongs that look like they won’t fall apart in five minutes. 

After shopping we headed back to Ueno to meet with Ayaka, our exchange student from 2019. We saw Ayaka in Queensland last year, while she was doing her year of university study in Brisbane. She came to stay with us in Melbourne before returning to Japan. Ayaka has such an Aussie accent now when she speaks English. She sounds very cute.

We briefly met with Ayaka’s mum and had an opportunity to tell her how we consider Ayaka our Japanese daughter. She was so gracious and thankful for having Ayaka stay with us. We went to an excellent yakitori place for dinner. All our favourite yakitori, and catching up on news of job interviews, internships, travel plans, and of course family. Having Ayaka stay with us for a term was a highlight for our whole family. I would recommend hosting a student if you’re open to it.

After dinner we walked home and enjoyed an early night, after the festivities of the night before. An early train for the north awaited us this morning. We are off to samurai snow country and I’m just a little bit excited.

Explore teamLab with this link. Read more about Taste with the Toji here.