Kyoto: Over Tourism

Part One: The overwhelming allure of geisha

Gion

Over tourism in Kyoto has been a growing problem for some years now. And it seems the allure of geisha is too strong for mere mortals to resist. Earlier this week in Kyoto, I heard several expat friends talking about changes around Gion. Gion is the largest of five geisha districts in Kyoto. Gion is impossibly beautiful at night. Narrow streets, with dimly-lit lanterns hanging in the doorways of restaurants, and red wooden street lamps. Barely recognisable ochiya, or teahouses, with little or no signage, where geisha entertain guests. The traditional wooden buildings offer little indication of what lies behind the noren curtain in the doorway, or through the slightly obscured narrow entranceway. The mystery of the ‘floating world’ is one of great temptation.

Having been away from Kyoto for nearly five years, Super Sake Boy and I decided to go for a walk in Gion to see what had changed. To be honest, we were horrified. Signs forbidding photography in the district were erected in October 2019, months after our last visit. The sentinel police, standing every 200 metres along the street are also new. Two guards stand at the crosswalk entry to Gion, directing hordes of tourists. I believe they are the Kyoto-Kiyomachi Police Squad, but I like to think of them as Culture Police.

Over Tourism

The dramatic increase in tourism in Kyoto has led to many social and cultural issues. Gion residents and business owners have been complaining about geiko (Kyoto geisha) harassment. The tourists ignore the signage, forbidding photography and occasionally they physically touch the geiko’s expensive kimono and behave like paparazzi. Their behaviour is unruly and disrespectful. There have also been accounts of trespassing on private property.

Beginning next month, tourists will be banned from entering the private streets of Gion. The main thoroughfare, Hanamikoji Dori will remain open.

Japan is a beautiful country to visit. Kyoto is my favourite city. It is so different to anywhere else in the world. If you find paradise, you can’t expect others will not want to experience it themselves. And thoughtful, culturally appropriate behaviour and awareness is not out of anyone’s reach. Etiquette in Japan is important. If you’re planning to travel there, make sure you know the expectations. Unfortunately, we saw a lot of cringey and ignorant behaviour from tourists from all over the world while we were in Japan. Please, don’t be one of them.

To read more about geisha, you can read Geisha, Oiran and Tayu here. Read The Japan Times article here.