Akita and Kodama Jozo

Super Sake Boy and I were introduced to Kodama Jozo, in Akita prefecture through our dear friend and mentor, Simone. Simone, the Sake Mistress, hosted weekly online sessions during Covid with various sake breweries throughout Japan. The session with the Kodamas was especially enjoyable and we have wanted to meet with them ever since. Eiko-san asked Super Sake Boy and I to pour for her at Sake Matsuri last year, but sadly, we were in Europe and couldn’t meet with her in Melbourne.

We made up for lost time in Akita prefecture. Eiko-san and Shin-san’s home town. When we started planning this trip, Akita was an obvious destination for us. With Ewan, Super Sake Boy’s eldest working in Hakuba, and Tohoku calling, we made our way up north.

Our hotel was only a 5 minute walk fro the station, but Eiko-san happily collected us and all our bags so we didn’t have to walk in the snow and cold. We arranged to meet again in the morning, and hustled our luggage into a small hotel room. Walking around in the snow we found a nice izakaya and enjoyed dinner and some sake and went to bed.

The Brewery

Kodama Jozo is the first real brewery Super Sake Boy and I have visited. Founded in 1879, Kodama Jozo initially produced shoyu (soy sauce) and miso. In 1913, they began producing sake.

Shin-san started our tour with looking at the moromi, fermenting in the massive tanks. The first thing I noticed when we entered was the smell. The room smelled strongly of yeast, a bit like a bakery. It’s a comforting, savoury smell. Quite delicious.

Previously, the Kodamas produced a lot of sake, but the demand has waned and production has decreased. The enormous machinery they have was impressive. The brewery was not really operational when we were there, and the shoyu and miso area were closed. However, seeing the process in real life was a great experience.

Luckily, the tasting room was open. Many of the Kodama’s sake are not available in Australia. Their Teihaizan Kimoto and the Chogetsu are regularly in our sake fridge at home. But we were excited to try the fresh sakes, (nama), the Tenko range, and the honjozo. Also, their amazing dashi (stock).

Lunch and Literature

After doing some shopping, and some very generous gift receiving, we went for lunch. Super Sake Boy braved a plate of sushi, and I enjoyed something I don’t regularly eat while in Japan. The boy who grew up in the middle of Canada is not a fan of fish. I am.

After lunch we drove to the Oga Peninsula, saw some giant namahage, and the Sea of Japan. Namahage are a type of oni (demons) who appear in people’s homes at New Year to scare the children into being good. Adults dress as namahage in straw and masks. They look scary, make terrible noises, and carry knives.

Eiko-san suggested we visit the Nakajima Library at Akita International University. The library was on my list of places I wanted to visit. The library is famous for the architecture. It is built with lots of exposed wood, with tiers, like a coliseum. The interior structure of the wooden beams is based on a Japanese umbrella. Such a beautiful space. We looked up some books and I had a read of a few potential resources. Eiko-san showed me two books, on she had co-authered and one in which she had written a chapter about the family history.

Dinner

Shin and Eiko then dropped us back at the hotel to rest before dinner. We met at a yakiniku (grilled meat) place around the corner from our hotel. When the huge platter with beef tongue, sukiyaki, and wagyu, was put on the table, it took my breath away. The meat was melt-in-your-mouth delicious. So good, we ordered extra sukiyaki. Of course, all this deliciousness was accompanied with Kodama Jozo sake. A delicious Tsuzuki Nama, which was excellent with the beef.

Our day with the Kodamas was amazing. They are so kind, generous, and welcoming. Eiko-san gave me some valuable advice on researching in Japan, and some potential contacts to help me. Super Sake Boy and I are so happy we trekked north. We will definitely visit again.

You can read more about Kodama Jozo here.